Big River Lives Up to Its Name
This eastern Missouri stream offers "Big" recreational opportunities for hunters, anglers, bird watchers, campers, history buffs and others who love the outdoors.
CALEDONIA, Mo. -- In 1720 when Philippe Francois Renault discovered the stream flowing just north of here he was so impressed with its beauty he named it Grande Riviere. As English influence replaced French, the translation of the stream's name resulted in somewhat of a misnomer - Big River.
Beauty can still be found along the stream, but Big River is not large in size. It is big on public lands and accessibility, however. As Big River descends from Council Bluffs Lake in the granite mountains of Iron County it flows past 10 Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC) public fishing accesses and a number of traditionally used stream put-ins before it meets the Meramec River.
Big River provides more than stream recreation. There are enough public lands nearby to keep an outdoors person busy for a year's worth of weekends. St. Francois and Washington State Parks are operated by the Missouri Department of Natural Resources and provide camping. MDC areas like Hughes Mountain Natural Area, and Young and Pea Ridge Conservation Areas (CAs) offer hunting opportunities. Nature study, miles of hiking trails, wildlife photography and bird watching are available at all these areas.
With a lazy gradient of about two feet per mile, Big River is attractive to float fishers. Of course, the big draw for these anglers isn't the easy paddling - it's the great fishing. Smallmouth bass, catfish and goggle-eye are high on the list of favorite fish. From the Leadwood Access in St. Francois County to the Meramec River confluence in Jefferson County, a special black bass regulation limits anglers to one smallmouth, which must be at least 15-inches in length, in a daily limit of six black bass. On the other hand, there is no length limit on spotted (Kentucky) bass throughout Big River and its tributaries. This combination of regulations provides a real "win-win" situation for those who can distinguish between the two black bass. The open season for Big River black bass begins the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend and ends the last day of February.
Bootleg Access is MDC's first stream site on Big River, and it provides more than just a place to launch a canoe. It's a favorite with hunters in August and September, when hickory nuts attract squirrels. The access is surrounded by over 300 acres of public land, and has a well-marked hiking trail.
Monsieur Renault was prospecting for mine sites when he discovered Big River. Across the St. Francois County line, mountains of mine tailings prove he was looking in the right place. Leadwood Access lies in the shadow of one of those tailing piles. This small tract is a good place to wade with light spinning gear or a fly rod. If you can deal with shallow riffles, you may find a float from Leadwood Access to St. Francois County's Bone Hole access productive.
Years of mining in this region have resulted in the erosion of lead tailings into the river. Predictably, the effect on fish has been disturbing. The Missouri Department of Health has issued advisories against eating carp, suckers and sunfish from the Big River in St. Francois and Jefferson counties due to high levels of lead contamination.
St. Francois State Park offers good public access downstream from the community of Bonne Terre. Steeped in history, this 2,735-acre park offers miles of hiking and equestrian trails through territory once frequented by civil war fighters and moonshiners. Coonville Creek Wild Area and Natural Area feature a high-quality Ozark stream in a wilderness setting. Of course, St. Francois State
Park provides ample camping opportunity and access to Big River, which comprises 2.5 miles of its southern border. For more information on St. Francois State Park call 1-800-334-6946.
At 1,821 acres, Washington State Park is another favorite with hikers and campers. It also borders Big River, providing plenty of fishing, canoeing and swimming. Petroglyphs, or rock carvings, done by prehistoric Indians are unique features of the park, which also has open "glades" loaded with wildflowers. Call (314) 586-2995 for more details about Washington State Park.
Entering below Washington State Park is Mineral Fork Creek. During periods of ample water flow, floaters can get a taste of both Mineral Fork and Big River by putting in at MDC's Kingston Access on Washington County Road 317 (also known as Dug Out Road) and taking out at Mammoth Access on Big River. Another attraction for hunters, hikers and nature watchers is Pea Ridge CA, consisting of several tracts totaling more than 8,300 acres along Highway 185 between Sullivan and Potosi.
MDC's Mammoth Access is west of De Soto off Highway H on Mammoth Road. It sports
a concrete boat ramp and allows a fair amount of bank fishing. Highway H Bridge west of De Soto is the location of MDC's Merrill Horse Access. Merrill Horse has .5 mile of river frontage and a concrete boat ramp. No camping is allowed, and frogs may not be taken with a firearm. Otherwise statewide hunting regulations apply on this 74-acre tract. Brown's Ford Access is 1.5-acres of MDC land between Highways WW and Y. Bank fishing is limited and there is no camping but there is a boat ramp.
Between Cedar Hill and Hillsboro on Highway B is Valley View Glades Natural Area. This MDC property features a scenic dolomite glade with an abundance of wildflowers and provides hunting opportunities. Only shotguns and shotshells may be used at Valley View Glades.
Morse Mill, south of Highway EE on Morse Mill Road, is the first milldam river travelers will encounter. Caution is recommended for boaters dealing with this obstacle: any dam presents problems in low water, and high water can turn them into life threatening traps. There is a lot of bank fishing available and good canoe access below the dam. An entry fee is collected. The next milldam encountered at Cedar Hill presents a more extreme situation. This relic of the past is a formidable obstruction that should be portaged by way of MDC's Cedar Hill Access on the left bank. Located between Highways B and BB south of Highway 30 on Cedar Hill Road, this MDC area has no boat ramp, but can provide good bank fishing in the spring and fall.
Continuing downstream, another portage (to the right) is required at Byrnesville milldam, which is privately owned. Again, at House Springs milldam, a left bank portage is necessary. Finally, at Byrnesmill floaters must contend with the last dam on Big River. Fortunately, Byrnesmill presents little difficulty except during low-flow periods. House Springs Access is administered by Jefferson County. A boat ramp is available, but users must pay an entry fee. As with most milldam sites, fishing is good during the cooler months. Occasionally walleye are caught, but black bass and catfish provide consistent action.
This tributary of the Meramec ends its journey south of Eureka, where nearby Hilda Young CA offers 970 acres featuring a well-maintained, 2.5-mile hiking trail and over a mile of frontage on LaBarque Creek. Take Highway W off I-44 to Highway FF in northern Jefferson County.
Big River's opportunities and diversity transcend those of other streams. Ample public land within the watershed offers something for everyone, whether it's virtual solitude along upper reaches, or an urban atmosphere near the mouth; canoeing or tubing in the heat of summer, or trapping or hunting furbearers in December.
Big River is included in an annual event known as Operation Cleanstream. This effort is conducted by Stream Teams - citizen groups sponsored by the Missouri Conservation Federation and the Departments of Conservation and Natural Resources - who are dedicated to caring for the state's stream resources. Another Stream Team project involves producing a video addressing lead pollution. Even the scars the stream bears provide an opportunity to learn, reclaim and heal. Perhaps "Big" River is an accurate translation after all.
